Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

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hahaya2004
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Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

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NO. 1
From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 01/02/1854

In sketching the rise and progress of most towns, the greatest difficulty is often felt in reference to their origin, and a paucity of details is often experienced where it is desirable our knowledge should be most complete and accurate. We felt this in gathering material for the sketches of Saltcoats. A considerable portion of the early part of its history was found to be involved in obscurity, and not till 1664 could almost any reliable data be found to enable us to trace its gradual development. It is otherwise with the harbour and town of Ardrossan. There are those residing in the neighbourhood who remember the spot on which these stand as a dreary marsh, and a rocky point on which the sea fowl found a habitation. No highway then connected the promontory with the town of Saltcoats, but the pathway to the rocks ran along the shore, which was often trod by those who, in summer, wished to spend a day in search of the eggs of the wild duck. Enterprise and industry have in a few years wrought a remarkable change. The waste has been filled up. The aquatic plants, then so plentiful, have disappeared; and the wild fowl have sought a quieter region in which, unmolested, they might hatch their brood. The nucleus of a great commercial emporium has been formed; and. to all appearance, the magnificent dream of the projector will yet be realized.
But although the town and harbour of Ardrossan are of but recent origin, rendering their history easy to trace, there are, nevertheless, objects connected with the locality which present several features of interest, and which we cannot overlook nor omit noticing. One of these features has a reference to the indications which the whole district presents of having, at one period, been submerged by the sea. Through the kindness of the Rev. Mr Stewart, of the Free Church, Ardrossan, who has given considerable attention to the geological features of the whole coast line in our vicinity, we are enabled to place this question in a clearer light. He says in answer to our request for evidence of this:-

"The first and most decided evidence of the point in question is to be found in the well defined ancient coast line, which stretches along the Kilbride shore at a distance of two or three hundred yards from the present sea beach, and almost parallel to it. The ground between this and the present coast line is usually styled, by our farmers, their "shore land" being lower and more level, and also more sandy than the upward part of their farms. There can be no doubt that this level strip of land was at some past period the beach on which the tide ebbed and flowed, and that the sloping braes which bound it on the landward side were once tall cliffs of the old red sandstone lashed by the waves at high water. This margin or strip of "shoreland" was at no very distant period strewn with boulder stones of various sizes and kinds. These have now been mostly removed, but specimens of them may be seen in the "dry-dykes" which here and there intersect it. But these boulders and their lessons may be best studied along the sea beach. We have observed that they are of various sizes. One of them, a little within high water mark, and on this side of Ann's Lodge (or Low Boydston) is a very picturesque object, and weighs at least forty tons. While generally consisting of volcanic rocks, basaltic and perphyritic[sic] traps being the most abundant, they are of a great variety of kinds, and scarcely any two blocks the same in structure. All this has a bearing upon the question as to the relative level of land and water at a former period in connection with the manner in which these stones were conveyed to their present position.
It is evident, in the first place, that they are neither fragments of the ancient sea-cliffs, nor separate masses of the sandstone beds which underlie them. That they were not brought into their present position by the action of the waves, or of volcanic agency, is equally apparent. There is only one other way in which they can be accounted for. It is a well-known fact that stones and masses of rock are frequently transported to great distances by floating masses of ice. It is probable that at the time before the sea receded to its present level, our shores were visited every winter by large floats of drift ice where they were stranded, and that, as they melted away before the advancing season, they dropped the fragments of rocks which they had enclosed, and which they had transported from their original site in colder latitudes. The existence of such a climate upon our shores as this would imply at some former period, may appear to require a bold belief, but it is not unsupported by other facts. Recently the scores or channellings which are usually formed on the surface of rocks by the gradual descent of glaciers were discovered on the hills near Fairlie, and shells of the same kind as those inhabiting the shores of Iceland and other Arctic regions, and which are not found on our own coasts, such as the Pecten Islandicus and Pauspea, were dug out of marine deposits a few feet above the present level of the sea.
The period when such was the temperature of our shores, as indicated by these facts, must have been one of very remote antiquity. There are some things, however, that would seem to prove that at some more recent period, even since our Island was inhabited, there have been changes in the level of our sea coasts. These are partly geological and partly traditional. The former consist in deposits of shells in various places in the neighbourhood, above the level of the sea, and of the same kind as those now inhabiting its waters. Tradition, moreover, informs us that boats were once moored to the rocks at the foot of the Castle-Hill, and that iron rings have been found attached to these rocks which had been used for that purpose. It is said also that an iron anchor, and the fragments of a canoe (a rude vessel) were found embedied[sic] in the alluvial soil near Brodick, at some considerable distance from the sea, which would indicate a corresponding change in the level of the sea on the shores of Arran, and probably at the same period." *

The chief object of antiquity which attracts the attention of strangers is the old Castle of Ardrossan. Its ruined walls rising amidst the young wood which now surrounds it, present in summer a romantic appearance, and invest it with the greatest interest. It must originally have been a place of considerable strength, and seems to have consisted of three or four towers. The only parts which now remain are the North Angle; a part said to have been the kitchen, the arched roof still entire; and two arched cellars with a broad stepped passage leading down to them. It had formerly an open court in the middle, and there is the appearance of what has been a moat round the east, west, and north sides, in order to afford protection from an invading foe. The south side was sufficiently protected by the precipitous rock close to the Castle, the base of which at that time was washed by the sea. This point was anciently called Seggany point lough, and was often resorted to in the fishing season. South-west of where the Pavilion now stands there was a range of detached rocks, originally called the Hangman's crag. It was in full view of one of the Castle windows, and was so called from the fact that here the Barons in ancient times meted summary justice to all who were unfortunate enough to come under their displeasure.
The date of its erection cannot now be satisfactorily ascertained. It is supposed, however, to have been one of the earliest of those strongholds, which came to be profusely erected over Scotland in the days of Malcolm Canmore, and may therefore date as far back as the early part of the eleventh century. When Pont wrote his "History of Cuninghame", it was quite entire, and he mentions that there was then in the castle vault a fountain of fresh water which ebbed and flowed with every tide. The Castle was demolished during the government of the Protectorate, and the stones are said to have been shipped to Ayr to build the fort which the troops of the Commonwealth are known to have erected in that place.
The first Baron of Ardrossan of whom any record is preserved bore the name Richard de Barclay. He is mentioned as a witness in the foundation charter of the Abbey of Kilwinning granted by Hugh de Morville. As the family of de Morville possessed large possessions, and were the superiors, if not the actual owners of the greater part of Cuninghame, it has been surmised that the Barclays of Ardrossan, were vassals of this powerful house. Paterson[1], however, quoting from Nisbet[2], says "that several important families of the same name must have existed in Scotland before the conquest," which somewhat militates against this supposition. During the thirteenth century the name seems to have been changed from Barclay to that of Ardrossan. Whether this arose from the Barclays adopting Ardrossan as their patronymic, or whether the lands passed into the hands of a new family, cannot now be ascertained; but in 1226 the name of Arthur de Ardrossan occurs appended to a charter granted in that year. The last male of this line was Godfrey de Ardrossan, whose sister or daughter married Hugh de Eglinton some time in the fourteenth century. The issue of this marriage was one daughter, Elizabeth de Eglinton, who was married to Sir John Montgomerie, of Eagleshame, which brought the estates of Eglinton and Ardrossan into the Montgomerie family, with whom they have ever since remained.
There are several traditions connected with this ancient pile, which may not be uninteresting to our readers. It is said to have been the scene of one of the many notable exploits of the heroic Wallace. The castle being at that time in possession of the English, Wallace, in order to allure the garrison from their stronghold, set a house in its vicinity on fire. The English, suspecting no danger, at once sallied out to the rescue. They were warmly received by the hero and his men, who having put the greater number to the sword, attacked the Castle and succeeded in gaining possession of it. The bodies of the slain English were flung into a deep vault at the bottom of what was called the red tower, which ever afterwards bore the name of "Wallace's Larder". This tradition is supposed to be countenanced by the fact, that in the year 1820, when making a cut for the Railway, close by the south side of the Castle, a large massive gilt bronze ring, with signet, was found; and from the circumstance that the letter W was engraved upon it, is supposed to have belonged to that redoubted warrior. The ring is still in the possession of the Rev. Dr Landsborough, Saltcoats.
There is another tradition given by Paterson in his "Families of Ayrshire", and quoted from "Scottish Sketches" in "Scots Times" newspaper, by J. Fullarton, Esq., of Overtoun, which we give entire;--

"Sir Fergus Barclay of Ardrossan was inordinately addicted to horse-racing and carried his exploits into all the neighbouring countries in Europe. His success in that pursuit was so great, and he became so famous, that all competition seemed hopeless. This, in the spirit of the times, was ascribed to an enchanted bridle, which it was believed he possessed in virtue of a secret compact with the devil; and hence his alarming soubriquet—"The Devil of Ardrossan". At last, however, as ill luck would have it, this instrument of the baron's infallibility was, by chance or treachery, transferred to the head of a rival's horse and thus he saw his power depart from him, and his sun of glory set for ever! – leaving him, no doubt, to exclaim with Macbeth –

"Accursed be that tongue that tells me so,
For it has cow'd my better part of man!
And be these juggling fiends no more believed".

How the Baron comported himself, or bore this trying disclosure of his secret, seems unfortunately, from some cause or other, to be omitted in the story. But the final terminus of his career is thus tragically related:
Leaving home on a distant journey, he gave strict injunctions to his lady regarding the care of his only son, a youth of tender years; in particular, that the young man should not be permitted to mount a spirited horse of which he was exceedingly fond. During the father's absence however, the youth had found means to obtain the horse, and unhappily riding out, was thrown from the animal and killed on the spot. This, of course, could not be concealed; and on Sir Fergus's return home, such was the ungovernable violence of his feelings that in a paroxysm of rage he slew the unhappy mother of his child! There is another version of the story, which says that she was not the mother of the unfortunate boy, but the second wife of his father, by whom she had an only child, a daughter; and accordingly it is surmised, that desirous of the succession to the estate opening to her own offspring, she was not altogether scathless of the death of young Barclay. Be this as it may, all future happiness was now reft from the miserable Sir Fergus. He retired with a favourite servant to the opposite island of Arran, and there, in the lone tower of Kildonan, ended his wretched days. A remarkable allusion to Ireland occurs in the story, while he sojourned here; and the manner of his death was this:-- He had a presentiment that, should he ever set foot on Irish ground, he should no longer live. It so happened that some Irish boats calling there had left a quantity of sods, which they had brought with them, on the beach; and the Baron chancing, as he passed, to tread on them, inquired how they came there. Being told, he exclaimed his end was now come ! and, giving orders regarding the disposal of his corpse he died that same night. He commanded that his body should be sewed up in a bull's hide, and buried within sea-mark. This was punctually attended to by his faithful servant; but the sea afterwards washing off the sand, the body floated across the channel to the shores of Ardrossan, and, landing immediately under the walls of the castle, was taken up in its cerecloth, and finally interred within the adjoining chapel.
In this brief tale the termination of the ancient barons of Ardrossan seems pretty distinctly shown forth; and the historical fact of the fate of Sir Fergus Barclay, at the battle of Arscoll [Ireland], may be the foundation of the whole.
The original parish church of Ardrossan stood close by the castle, and though long removed, its site is still to be traced. Within its area lies an ancient tombstone, which tradition appropriates as that of Sir Fergus Barclay. On it is sculptured the figure of a man at full length, with two shields of arms laid over him. One appears to represent the royal arms of Scotland, being the lion rampant; the other is probably the escutcheon of the deceased. Before the building of the new town, this was an exceedingly excluded spot, and the superstitious dread which was entertained of the sanctuary of "the Devil of Ardrossan" was very great. It was believed that were any portion of the "moulds" to be taken from under this stone and cast into the sea, forth with should ensue a dreadful tempest to devastate sea and land."

To be continued.
________________________________________
* Since the above was in type we have received a copy of an excellent article on the Geological Features of the District originally published in the "Ayr Observer"; a portion of which we will re-publish in these Sketches

[1] James Paterson - History of the County of Ayr, Vol. 1.
[2] Alexander Nisbet - A System of Heraldry,
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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George Ardrossan
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by George Ardrossan »

Thanks you, Hahaya, for this and the many other historical posts that you make. It is important to record the history of a town and your contributions do just that. It must take a long time to transcribe the text so your input is much appreciated.

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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by exile »

George Ardrossan wrote: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:58 pm Thanks you, Hahaya, for this and the many other historical posts that you make. It is important to record the history of a town and your contributions do just that. It must take a long time to transcribe the text so your input is much appreciated.

George
Agree completely.
I was fascinated by the writer's phrase "...very remote antiquity", as the belief that the Earth was only 6,000 years old was very widely accepted up until what must have been the writer's own lifetime, e.g., Robert Burns, a couple of generations earlier, referenced it in his poem Holy Wullie's Prayer
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

Many thanks, George and Exile. :puter
The next one should be ready tomorrow or Monday.

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The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

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NO. 2
THE HARBOUR

From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 25/02/1854


Great works have generally been projected and carried on by the enterprise and energy of private individuals. The little fishing creek in Saltcoats was erected into a harbour by the enterprise of Sir Robert Cunninghame, in the year 1664; and it is to the no less public-spirited exertions of Hugh, twelfth Earl of Eglinton, that we are indebted for the Town and Harbour of Ardrossan. The object he had in view was to erect a safe and commodious harbour, which, being connected with Glasgow and Paisley by means of a canal, would supersede the tedious navigation of the Clyde, while extending the commercial intercourse of the West of Scotland with the sister kingdoms and foreign countries. It was a magnificent idea, and was carried out with enthusiasm and energy, at an expense which has seldom been equalled, perhaps never surpassed, by a private individual. It is only to be regretted that he did not live to witness, to a certain extent, the realization; and to have received those marks of honour which a successful promoter of great works, calculated to benefit the public, ought, and in this age, generally does receive.
The idea of erecting a harbour at the Ardrossan point, connected with Glasgow by a canal, was entertained by the late Earl of Eglinton very shortly after his accession to the Estates, in 1796. Nor was he alone in his estimate of the great advantages which the commerce of the West of Scotland would receive from such a project. He was joined in the enterprise by a respectable number of the gentlemen in Ayrshire, and the neighbouring counties of Lanark and Renfrew, who formed themselves into a company to carry on the works. The bay of Ardrossan was surveyed and planned by Mr Telfer, a celebrated engineer; and Acts of Parliament were obtained in 1805, empowering the Company to proceed with the canal and harbour. The canal was begun but never opened farther than from Glasgow to Johnstone. This is not to be regretted as the railway now secures the same object.
The foundation stone of the harbour was laid on the 31st July 1806. The day was extremely favourable, and an immense concourse of spectators assembled from all parts of the surrounding country to witness the important event. In accordance with the usual custom observed in the erection of public works, the foundation stone was laid with Masonic honours; and in the stone were deposited two bottles, one containing the different coins of the realm; the other the subscribers' names, and the Acts of Parliament empowering the erection of the harbour and canal. Colonel Blair, of Blair – then R. W. G. M. of the Mother Kilwinning Lodge – officiated on the occasion, accompanied by a great number of the brethren from different lodges in the district. At the conclusion of the ceremony, not fewer than 300 gentlemen were accommodated in a large tent, and several marquees, which were erected on the castle hill, where his lordship entertained them to dinner, in a style worthy of the greatness of the enterprise. A company of the County Volunteers was on duty, and preserved order; whilst several pieces of cannon, stationed on the hill, kept up a constant firing, alternately answered by two of the government Revenue Cutters that day cruising in the bay.
The works, as originally contemplated, were to consist of: 1st – An outer harbour, or roadstead, within the breakwater, wherein ten or twelve of the larger vessels might lie at anchor, or bring up in, previous to entering the Wet Dock; the depth of water being from twenty to thirty feet at low water. 2nd – A tide harbour, to contain from 50 to 60 coasting vessels, in a depth of from 10 to 20 feet at high water. 3rd – A Wet or Floating Dock, of about seven Scotch acres, that might contain 50 large ships, of from 300 to 600 tons burden; the regular depth of water being about 20 feet. And 4th – Two Graving Docks, for repairing vessels.
These works the Earl pushed on with great vigour, but the excavation being chiefly out of the solid rock, proved a more laborious undertaking than was at first calculated upon. From 1806 till 1819 it was carried on without interruption at an enormous expense, the outlay being often as high as £1000 per month, and never less than £4000 per annum. There were generally employed at the works from fifteen to twenty masons; forty-five to fifty quarrymen; and from ninety to a hundred labourers, not including smiths, wrights, and men in charge of the horses employed in conveying the stones from the quarries to the breakwater. It was calculated that during the first fourteen years of the erections a sum of not less than £100,000 was expended upon them. This large sum had chiefly to be borne by his Lordship, for, on the subscribers finding that the expense was much greater than at first anticipated, they resiled from their engagement, and the Earl was compelled either to suspend the works or carry them on at his own cost. He died in the year 1819, and for eight years almost nothing was done. But the present Earl had no sooner attained his majority than they were again resumed; and now, what with a Wet Dock, a Graving Dock, and an Inner Harbour, it will bear a favourable comparison with any port in Scotland. It is secure against almost all winds; and its situation is the best in the whole frith, both for inland purposes, and foreign intercourse.
The length of the Quay and Dock Walls is 3650 feet, and every facility is afforded for the loading and unloading of the vessels. A steam tug is always stationed at the harbour in order to tow vessels in or out. A machine, worked by steam, has recently been constructed for the purpose of unshipping ballast; and there are capacious stores for the reception of goods, which are stored at moderate rates.
Another important addition has been made to the harbour within the last few days. The Society for the preservation of life from shipwreck has placed a Life Boat there, which it is hoped will lessen the danger to shipping, overtaken, whilst on the coast, with stormy weather. She is 27 feet long, and when her capabilities were tested, previous to being sent to Ardrossan, they were found to be highly satisfactory. She was designed by Mr J. Peake, Assistant-Master shipwright in her Majesty's Dockyard, Woolwich, and was built by the Messrs. Forrest. She costs, with her necessary gear, £150, and whilst placed at Ardrossan by the Society already mentioned, we are indebted for her to the enterprize and liberality of gentlemen who are interested in the prosperity of the port. No one can feel any desire to see her merits tested in an actual case of shipwreck, but prudence, and humanity, dictate that every precaution should be adopted to ward off danger, and if danger is inevitable, at least to take measures which might help to lessen the evil.
The harbour at all times presents a busy appearance, and there are several circumstances which warrant the belief that it is destined yet fully to realize the hopes of the projector. It is connected by railway with Glasgow, Paisley, the principal towns in the west, the north of Scotland, and the great manufacturing districts of England. It has also direct railway connection with all the Ayrshire and Lanarkshire collieries; so that coal can always be had in abundance on the shortest notice. The shipment of coal at Ardrossan does not as yet equal Troon, but during the last five years there has been a material increase. Bricks are also shipped in great numbers, as they are now largely manufactured in Ayrshire. But the chief article of export is Pig Iron. This arises from its proximity to the Eglinton, Blair, Glengarnock, Lugar, New Cumnock, and Muirkirk Iron Works; all of which make large shipments, both foreign and coastwise from Ardrossan. Frequently Pig Iron is forwarded from Glasgow to Ardrossan, as vessels often prefer loading there in preference to the Broomielaw. The following table exhibits the gross exports in Pig Iron for the last three years, with the increase each year.

_______________________________________
..........Foreign.......Coastwise....Total Increase
________________________________________
1851........7,302........64,563
1852......14,108........78,598......20,841
1853......16,984........95,966......20,244
Total increase over 1851.............41,085

The shipments of Pig Iron are still likely to increase. Within a few months one or more of the furnaces at Ardeer Iron Works will be in blast; and, as they are within three miles of the harbour, the brands cast there will probably be shipped at Ardrossan. It is already the third port in the kingdom for the export of this article; and, considering the furnaces now in blast in Ayrshire and neighbouring Counties, the probability is that it will yet become the first.
Since the stores were erected several Glasgow merchants have imported cargoes of grain from Alexandria, which were first stored, and as occasion required, either conveyed per rail to Glasgow or transhipped to Ireland. There have also been several importations of Iron ore, for the use of the furnaces in the neighbourhood, and it is expected that great quantities will be required when the Ardeer works are commenced.
The steamers which leave the port are the Isle of Arran, which in summer plies daily between Ardrossan and Arran; and the Belfast steamers, which leave three times a week. This is by far the shortest route to Ireland, and, as it is accomplished at night, merchants can visit the sister kingdom, transact business, and be back again in the course of one day.
As an example of the prosperity of the port, we append a table of the

Amount and Value of Tonnage Brought into Ardrossan In about Twelve Months

________________________________________
Vessel's Name...Reg. Ton...........Value
________________________________________
Quebec...........580..................£4100
Londonderry......300...................1800
E. Grimmer.......350...................2200
Rigolette..........70.................... 350
Hero...............180................... 950
Cygnet.............177................... 500
Primrose...........183...................700
William Campbell.108...................750
Adam White.......110...................580
Commerce.........177...................850
Warner.............154....................800
Pekin...............288...................2000
Patience...........480...................3000
Harvest Home....454...................2300
Three Brothers...134.....................670
Arran Maid.........40.....................400
Farnham...........134....................500
Collouden Castle..778...................7500

Total Tonnage.................................................4615
Total Value..................................................£29,950

In our sketch of the Harbour of Ardrossan we cannot omit noticing the progress of ship-building at that port. Ship-building was introduced by Mr Matthew Henderson, sen., Ardrossan, in the year 1825. He was very successful, and turned out a considerable number of smart crafts from 100 tons burden and under. He retired in 1844. A Mr Fife was also engaged for a few years in ship-building, and on his death was succeeded by Mr Peter Barclay, who, besides carrying on an extensive business as a blacksmith and engineer, does a little in ship-building chiefly for the coasting trade. It was reserved, however, for Messrs Barr & Shearer to carry on this business on a large scale. They began in 1842, and although extensively employed in repairing vessels, they have since then built a considerable number of first-class timber vessels which have earned for them the character of good ship-builders. The last vessel that they launched, "The Contest", was considered by those qualified to judge, to reflect the greatest credit upon them, both in respect to its modelling and equipment. It was, besides, the largest timber vessel that had ever been launched on the Clyde. The firm has upward of 300 hands in their employment, and they intend in a short time, we believe, in addition to what they undertake at present, to execute repairs on iron vessels.
Adjoining to the harbour there is an extensive Saw-Mill, kept in constant operation by Messrs Russell & Fullartons. R. C. Wallace & Co.'s Ship Block, Pump and Crab Winch establishment, where Nautical Instruments are sold and repaired. A Sail Loft occupied by Messrs McLeod and McKay. A Block work belonging to Mr C. Bannatyne, and an extensive Rope and Sail store in the possession of Messrs H. & T. McDonnell.
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by Meg »

Thanks Irene - fascinating reading. Really appreciate your hard work.

Meg
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

Thank you, Meg. Glad you're enjoying them. :D
Irene
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

NO. 3

From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 22/04/1854


In the first sketch of Ardrossan, notice was taken of the ancient family who at one time inhabited the old castle, and a legend was given in connection with that particular member of it who earned for himself the soubriquette of the "Deil of Ardrossan". About forty years ago there were a great many traditions extant in reference to this remarkable individual, and ballads containing a record of his deeds were very common throughout the district of Cuninghame. With the exception of the tradition already given, there is not one of them which can now be considered entire. They are preserved in a disjointed state in the memories of "the oldest inhabitants". He is supposed to have leagued himself with the devil, who was to yield him all manner of service on the condition that Sir Fergus was to become his property whenever there was no further work for him to do. Sir Fergus' love for horse-racing has already been alluded to. He distanced all competitors, and in allusion to this the ballad thus runs:

The black and the white they run nearest the dyke,
But aye the grey mare she gaed foremost;
The brown and the yellow they flew like the swallow,
But aye the grey mare she gaed foremost.

He was also noted for great works, and was enabled by the same influence to build a bridge from Port Patrick to the opposite coast in Ireland. But such a league could not well be lasting and the rupture between the two parties is thus related:
One day the Devil came to him in the form of a horse, and asked if he had anything further for him to do, for if not, he was to prepare to yield himself up to his dominion. Sir Fergus told him to make ropes of sand. This was demurred to, unless permission was given to mix the sand with bere-chaff, a condition, which Sir Fergus was by no means inclined to comply with. Satan finding that his inability to perform this command freed his victim, gave a loud neigh which made the welkin ring, struck his hoof into the castle wall, the mark of which is still shewn, and disappeared for ever. From that moment Sir Fergus' remarkable success on the turf declined. He was no longer the feared of all competitors, and in one of the races which he afterwards undertook, one of the horses is represented saying:

Keep fast by thy saddle, by boy, never fear,
And ye ne'er will be beat by the bonny grey mare.

The existence of so many traditions shows that Sir Fergus de Barclay was a man of more than ordinary energy and ability, and that it was to the possession and exercise of these qualities that he was indebted for the superstitious awe with which the vulgar regarded him.
About a mile from Ardrossan on the north shore there is the remains of another old castle, once the property of the Montfode family. It seems to have consisted of a large, oblong, square tower, but the staircase is all that remains of it, the greater part of the walls having been removed a few years ago to be used in constructing a water course and off-fall for the water-wheel of a thrashing mill. It is undoubtedly an object of antiquity, for the name of the Montfode family can be traced as far back as the year 1165, and is subsequently found mentioned in a variety of papers, and in connection with a number of events, more or less of a public nature, in the county. Getting into difficulties, the property passed from the hands of the Montfode family somewhere between the years 1672 and 1682, for in the latter year it is found in the possession of William Brisbane, "Apothecary and chirurgeon", in Ayr. In 1765 it is in the possession of William Ramsay, Esq., who was that year admitted a burgess of Ayr; but it was subsequently purchased by the late Robert Carrick, Esq., banker in Glasgow and is now possessed by his disponee[1].
A little south of these ruins is an artificial mound of earth, called Castlehill. It is supposed to be one of those marine forts once so common along the coast. There is another a little farther along the shore, on the lands of Boydstone; but the latter is not quite so insulated as the former.
About 150 yards off where the Rotton Burn discharges itself into the sea – a little east of Seafield House, on the north shore – the visitor will observe two stones having the appearance of two black cattle lying close together. These stones point to a few small stones on the sand, distant about 36 yards, N. E., where, it is said, Alexander, tenth Earl of Eglinton, lost his life, on the 24th October, 1769, by means of a gun-shot. His lordship was passing in a carriage, accompanied by a favourite servant, who called attention to an excise officer, of the name of Mungo Campbell, who was seen coming from the lands of Montfode with a gun in his hand. The Earl, having on a previous occasion called him in question for trespassing, supposing him to have again been in search of game, at once left the carriage, charged Campbell with the offence, and demanded of him to deliver up his gun. This he refused to do, and a scuffle ensued, Campbell always making a retrograde movement as his lordship advanced to seize hold of it. Unfortunately, Campbell tripped on one of the small stones already alluded to, and fell. According to one account, after his fall he raised himself on his elbow and shot the Earl, the ball passing below the heart, and lodging between the shoulders; but, according to another, the gun is supposed to have gone off accidentally. His lordship was conveyed to his carriage, and died about one o'clock next morning. Campbell was tried at Edinburgh, and was condemned to be hung. Great interest was made by his friends on his behalf, but without success. On their failure to procure for him a pardon, it is said that they dressed up a dead body in female attire which they conveyed to the cell under pretence that it was his wife making a farewell visit to him. Whilst in the cell they caused Campbell to don the clothes in which they had dressed the dead body, and, having re-clothed it in the prisoner's garments, it was hung by a napkin and towel to a form placed upright in the cell. Campbell, it is farther said, escaped to Turkey, where he attained an eminent position. This is founded upon the circumstance that a person, attended in great state, with six boys carrying his train, was, some years afterwards, pointed out as a person who had shot a Scottish nobleman. The gun is still preserved at Eglinton Castle.
About three-fourths of a mile from Ardrossan harbour is a small, low, flat, rocky island called the Horse Isle. The origin of the name is differently stated. Pont says that it was derived from "Phillipe Horsse, son-in-law to Sir Richard Moruell [Morville], quho in old evidences was styled Phillipe de Horssey". Others again derive it from the circumstance that horses were pastured there. The island contains about 12 acres of good pasture land with a supply of fresh water; and a beacon tower was erected on it by the late Earl of Eglinton, for the benefit of the seamen frequenting the port of Ardrossan. There is a story told of a horse pastured on the Horse Isle, which regularly, every night, swam from the island to the north shore, and having heartily regaled himself upon the standing corn in a field, swam back again to its sea-girt home.
Another object of interest near to Ardrossan is the old Burying Ground, a short distance from the ruins of the Castle. It has long since ceased to be a place of sepulture, but the unchiselled and lettered head stones, weather-wasted, and fog-encrusted, tell us of generations who have long ago played out their parts upon the stage of life, and now sleep serenely beneath those grassy mounds. The Church of Ardrossan originally stood here, and although the stones were removed many years ago, its foundations can still be traced. Previous to the Reformation, the Church was a pendicle to the Abbey of Kilwinning, the patronage of which lay with the Archbishop of Glasgow, and with the King when that see was vacant. It contained several altars, one of which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and another to St. Peter. It was not of very large dimensions, and was blown down by a severe storm in the year 1695. The graveyard is also of very limited extent, and contains few monuments of historical interest. There is one which has excited the interest of the curious, but which cannot now be satisfactorily deciphered. The inscription "runs round the margin of the stone in a single line of old Saxon or Irish character, and encloses the lower half of the figure of an 'armed man' in demi-relief. Over the limbs of the effigy is carved a shield, charged with a meagre animal rampant; but whether lion, libbard [leopard], wolf, or dog of chase has been represented, it is impossible now to determine. From the breast of the figure depends another shield quartered; but of neither of the defaced bearings in these diversions, nor of the purport of the equally obliterated marginal inscription can a conjecture be now hazarded". Some suppose the monument to have belonged to the Montfode family, whilst others say that it is the place where Sir Fergus de Barclay was buried, after that, according to tradition, it was washed over from Arran in its cerecloth.
After the downfall of the church in 1695, another was built in a more sheltered situation about three-fourths of a mile north-east of the Castle, on the banks of the Stanley Burn. It may not be generally known that on the banks of this small stream there also stood a clachan, which bore the name of Stanley Clachan, but all vestiges of it is now removed, and for nearly a century the plough has passed over its foundations. Thus

Times go by turns, and changes change by course,
From fair to foul – from better hap to worse

The only memorial of the second church is the tombstone of the minister, the Rev. Thomas Clark. He was buried within its precincts under the session table. A march dyke, a few yards north of Kirkhall burial-place, curves round the grave, and on a tombstone of red sandstone was the following inscription, now nearly obliterated:

"Mr Thomas Clark is buried
Here who wase minister of the Gospell
In Ardrossan from April, 1691, to
November the 20th, 1739.
Thise small monument erected for
Him after the translation of the
Church from thise place to Saltcoats,
In the year 1744."

"Near to the site of the second church is the burial place of the Weirs of Kirkhall. It is a small enclosure formed by a thorn hedge, and a stone wall, and sheltered by an encompassing row of ash and elm trees. There is a monument erected composed of two Tuscan columns surmounted by a pediment, and the inscription which is cut in a sunk panel of black marble, is as follows:

"This burial place was erected by Hugh Weir, of Kirkhall
Dorothia Hunter, his wife, died Sept. 26th, 1787, aged 67 years
Hugh Weir died Jany. 9th, 1800, aged 72 years.
Helen Ferry, wife of Robert Weir, died April 20th, 1824, aged 56 years
Robert Weir died 31st July, 1838, in the 81st year of his age."

A headstone, to the right of the monument, informs us in similar brevity of phrase, that "Robert Boyd is interred here. He died August 9th, 1823, in the 73 year of his age, and 62 of his faithful service." The trees surrounding this place of sepulture are the only index now by which the stranger can direct his steps to this silent and sequestered spot – silent, indeed, these many years, to the voice of prayer, and the hymn of praise."

To be continued.
________________________________________
[1]The disponee was James Carrick Moore, brother and biographer of Lieutenant-General Sir John Moore of Corunna
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

NO. 4

From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 17/06/1854

In the latter part of the last sketch of Ardrossan notice was taken of the old church with its ancient burying-place in the vicinity of the castle, and of its transfer to the banks of the Stanley burn in 1695. Previous to this date very little is known of the ecclesiastical history of the parish, as the Session Records date no farther back than the commencement of the ministry of the Rev. Thomas Clark, who was ordained minister of Ardrossan in 1691. According to the New Statistical Account of Scotland, "the earliest reformed minister of the parish of whom any notice has been found is named in a letter of Regent Murray's to the General Assembly of 1569. The Regent says, 'Mairover at our coming, at Aberdeen, there came ane named Porterfield, minister, provydit of before to the viccarage of Ardrossane, and required also of us that he micht have the viccarage of Steinstone, seeing both was ane matter meine aneuch to sustaine him, and because the kirks war near, he micht discharge the cure of both.' Two years prior to this it appears that Alexander Henderson was exhorted at Ardrossan, at 40 merks of salary. He was 'translatit' to Stewarton, and was succeeded by William Montgomery. Alexander Campbell, rector of Ardrossan, is witness to a sasine, (penes Robert Cuninghame of Auchinharvie) in 1593. Alexander Dunlop was deposed in 1646, and succeeded in the following year by Ralph Rodger, who was translated, and succeeded by John Bell, who was one of the indulged ministers. On the 26th January 1617, the privy-council made an act confining all indulged ministers to their respective parishes. Wodrow states, that 'Mr John Bell, minister at Ardrossan, confined to his parish, his father living within a mile of him, falls sick, and he must apply to the council to visit his dying father, minister of Stevenston. They allowed him, indeed, by their act, (22nd June, 1671) but with a proviso, that he go to no other house without his parish in coming and going.' He demitted his charged in 1688, after being indulgent of the parish for 26 years, a Mr Rew being curate of the parish, doing all the duties of the Episcopal Church in the old kirk at the Castle during this period, and occupying the Manse, glebe, and all the emoluments of office. After the persecution Mr Bell was succeeded by Mr Thomas Clark, who was minister of the old church when it was damaged by the tempest. There is nothing in the Session Records which can throw any light upon the condition of the parish at this period. The limited accommodation which either the old church, or the Stanley kirk, could give, sufficiently indicates the extent of the population; but the change from the one place to the other is not only to be accounted for by the desire to have it erected in a more sheltered spot, but may be traced to the fact that Saltcoats was gradually increasing in the number of its inhabitants. Education does not appear to have been altogether neglected. In several places mention is made of the exertions of the Session to get a school at Auchanshangan, (situated about a quarter of a mile south-east of Stanley kirk) which were ultimately successful, a James Boyd, residing there, being "willing to give a house for payment." The schoolmaster has been as much abroad then, however, as in many districts he is still, much to the loss of the community, which we may infer from the following:

"Ardrossan, June 6, 1692 – The minister reported that he heard of a young boy, called Robert Mitchell, who was willing to take a school in the parish, and would take what emoluments were ordinarily given, and content himself therewith for a while. The said Robert being of good report, and well-known to several of the elders was accepted of."
A minute of the 14th January informs us of the young boy's appointment to the office of schoolmaster and clerk to the Session. But the emoluments of his office cannot have been very great for a year afterwards we find the following entry under date:
Ardrossan, April 26, 1693 – "The which day the Session recommended it to the minister to speak to my Lord Montgomerie, and the rest of the heritors of the parish, anent a salary to the schoolmaster, which he promised to do."

How the minister succeeded the Records sayeth not, but at a subsequent date mention is made of a collection for poor scholars, which amounted to the considerable sum of £13 7s 8d scots.
The highly commendable practice of keeping a record of the proceedings of the Session introduced by Mr Clark at the beginning of his ministry seems very soon to have fallen into disnetude for the dates extend only from April 2nd 1691, till September 17th, 1693. On his decease in 1737 the want of a regular record was very much felt by the Session, and on the first week-day meeting after Mr Dow's ordination, the matter was brought before them, when it was agreed that the clerk was to keep a book in which to register the baptisms and marriages occurring in the parish; whilst the proceedings of the Session, with the state of the poor's money, were to be preserved in a folio book procured for the purpose. In the minute in which this resolution is recorded the Session entered an inventory of their goods and chattels which are thus enumerated;
"The Session have a large velvet mortcloth which they lend out at four shillings each time; a little velvet one, at one, and large black cloth one, at one shilling each time. They have a box with two locks and keys confrom for keeping the money and papers. Two pewter flaggons for the wine at the sacrament, and they have cloths of linen for the communion tables; likewise the timber of a tent to serve for preaching in the fields and a bason to hold water for baptisms. The Session appoint the moderator to buy four communion cups of hard mettle, and the acts of the General Assembly of this church." We learn also from the same minute that the people were as little disposed then, as too many are still, to give into the treasury of the church "the best of their wealth," for on the Session examining into the state of the poor's funds there was found to be upwards of six pounds sterling of bad copper coins, which was ordered to be sold by weight to the best advantage.
Mr Robert Dow was ordained minister of the parish, in Aug., 1739. He laboured for a few years in the Stanley kirk, and was the first minister of the church afterwards erected in Saltcoats. On looking over the Session Records during the period in which they were kept by him it is painful to notice the change which his handwriting underwent as he increased in years. The minutes as recorded by him extend over 146 pages of a folio book, the greater number of which are beautifully written; but latterly they are almost illegible, and in one or two instances only the signature is appended. It is little more than 100 years since he was ordained to the pastoral oversight of the people in this parish, and in that time there has been not a few changes. Of the kirk itself there remains no longer a vestige, the district has become thickly peopled, and the superstitions of the age have passed away.
As an evidence of the credulity of the times, Mr Dow was accustomed to relate an incident which occurred in his sessions after he was newly appointed to the parish. On the occasion of his dispensing the first sacrament, according to use and wont, the communion elements were brought from Saltcoats to the manse, which then stood about forty falls south of Kirkhall burying-place. After the services of the Saturday were over, which generally consisted of two sermons, and the usual devotional exercises, the session met to consult in respect to the order to be observed on the following day. This being arranged a James Russell, the then ruling-elder and blacksmith in the adjoining clachan, inquired of the minister which two members of the session were to be employed to watch the communion elements during the night. The thought of thieves at once occurred to Mr Dow, and he naturally asked if there were any thieves in the neighbourhood which rendered such a course necessary. To this the elder replied that he was not aware of any such being in the neighbourhood, but that on former occasions his predecessor Mr Clark, and the session, were accustomed to appoint two elders to watch the elements, not through fear of thieves making away with them, but lest the arch-enemy, or perhaps
some malignant witch, should cast their cantrips over them previous to their being consecrated by prayer on the following day. Mt Dow, however, thought that as the elements were in the study-room, which could be secured by a good lock, made by Mr Russell himself, there could be nothing to fear, and had no hesitation in assuring them that neither devil nor witches had any power, either by day or night, to hurt the elements.
The following memorandum of occurrences during the vacancy subsequent to the death of the Rev. Mr Dow, July 20, 1787, is recorded in the session book:

"After several fruitless applications to the Earl of Eglinton in favour of Mr James Stevens, who had been some few months assistant to Mr Dow, it was reported to the parish for certain that a presentation had been given to one Mr John Duncan, schoolmaster, at Kilmarnock, and a preacher. Against him some remonstrances were given in to the Presbytery in March (1788). The Presbytery appointed the Rev. Mr Duncan to preach at Ardrossan, May 4. When this day came, and it was known that he had arrived at Stevenston with three coaches, six horsemen, and sixteen or eighteen clubmen, with a smith and great forehammers, to break the kirk doors, supposed to be shut, there was a running together of some women and boys, on design, as was judged, to oppose them, but no men in the parish of any consequence among them. Between 11 and 12, Duncan and his people arrived at the foot of Finlay's Brae, and being informed by some
gentlemen that a mob was got up in the village, he thought proper to sheer off with his gang to Irvine, where, after some time spent carousing, they set out for Kilmarnock, where they continued the day at a second sederunt, as they had done at Irvine. By appointment of the Presbytery of Irvine, Aug. 5, '88 Mr Brisbane was appointed to preach and intimate a call to Mr Duncan's settlement; and Messrs Maxwell, Pollock, and Oughterson to meet at Ardrossan kirk to moderate a call for said presentee – Maxwell to preach. The call was served."

"Aug. 28
Messrs Pollock and Oughterson arrived at the Turk's Head, Saltcoats, and were advertised that the kirk was open, and everything quiet. However, some idle women and children gathering about the door where they were, and giving some cheers or hurras, they thought proper to sheer off – the same idle gang following and hurraing them half way to Stevenston, but without any violence. After several to's and fro's before presbytery and synod, the presentee, by sentence of commission of General Assembly, Aug. 26, 1587, was appointed to be ordained minister of Ardrossan, on or before 1st September. The presbytery, at their next meeting, appoint, ordain, at Irvine, Aug. 27, Mr Graham of Comrie, to serve the edict for that purpose; but Mr Graham did not come, so no edict was served; however, the ordination was performed in Irvine kirk, August 27, when Mr Millar, from Kilmaurs, preached and presided."

"Thursday, Sept. 17.
When said Duncan appointed this day for entering on his ministry – hourly approaching – but did not come."

"Sabbath, Sept. 20, 1789
This day Mr Duncan having appointed to preach here, came as far as Stevenston; but fearing an uproar among the people, he stopped and preached there in the afternoon; but Bailie Ralston advanced as far as the kirk. No harm done."

"May 4.
A visitation appointed by presbytery."

"May 13.
By said appointment at Saltcoats, Messrs Richmond, Graham, Miller, and Rowan, their clerk, joined by Mr Woodrow and Duncan, Grange, (Kerelaw now) Hullerhurst, and Constable Crafurd, from Kilwinning, came to Saltcoats, where they met at Mr Robert Campbell's close, innkeeper, by a great mob of women, and youngsters in women's clothing; and judging it not safe to go to the kirk in such company and circumstances, they agreed to go to the schoolhouse, and marched along with the mob without molestation. They came to merchant Brown's house (Mr Coulter's shop, watchmaker,) being on the confines of the parish of Ardrossan, where the mob began the attack most furiously. However, they made good their way, at least most of them, to the schoolhouse, among showers of dirt and stones from all quarters."

Mr Duncan continued to be minister of the parish till the year 1819, and was succeeded by Mr John Hendry, who had bee ordained his assistant in 1810. Mr Hendry died 1835, and his place is now filled by Mr Bryce, who like his predecessor, also laboured in the capacity of assistant previous to his entering upon the duties of parish minister.
The church was removed from the Stanley Clachan in the year 1744, and erected in Saltcoats. This edifice stood for 29 years, and in 1773 the present church was erected on the same site. Externally it has a homely appearance, a small belfry surmounting it in front, the entrance being at the two gables, and by a stair in the rear of the building. This arrangement and the re-seating of the church was made a few years ago, according to a plan by Mr Paton, architect, Ayr. The arrangement of the seats is exceedingly awkward, and as the gallery is low set, and extends over a considerable portion of the church, the appearance of the whole is not very agreeable and we should suppose to a considerable number of the hearers not very comfortable. The pulpit, however, is more in keeping with the times, and there is suspended from the ceiling a fine model of a mimic war ship, the workmanship and gift, in 1800, of Mr William Dunlop, late gunner's mate, on board his Majesty's ship, St. Joseph. The talents of the present minister are such that in spite of the Disruption, he succeeded in preserving, and still maintains a large and influential congregation.
We cannot conclude our notice of the ecclesiastical history of the parish without referring to the churches in Ardrossan. Besides churches attached to the Free and Independent bodies, there is also one in connection with the Established. The latter is an elegant building surmounted by a handsome spire, the whole erected in the year 1844, at a cost of nearly £3000. The interior is no less elegant. The windows behind the pulpit is of highly ornamented stained glass, and the pulpit and front seats of gallery are painted and covered with crimson cloth.

To be continued
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

NO. 5*

From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 12/08/1854


In former Sketches we took an opportunity of alluding to certain objects of interest in Ardrossan and vicinity – traced the progress of the harbour from its commencement in 1801, till the present time – and detailed the various ecclesiastical changes in the parish. We have still to notice the town itself and the landward part of the parish, which we propose to do in the present Sketch.
The town of Ardrossan is built upon a promontory, and owes its origin to the harbour. Previous to the commencement of the harbour there were no houses on the spot; and had there been no harbour, there would, in all likelihood, have been no town. The situation is highly salubrious, and the air pure and bracing. The houses are substantial, the streets wide and built at right angles; and the means of communication with other parts of the county frequent and easy. Ardrossan has for many years been noted as a superior watering place, and visitors from all parts of the country come to reside in it during the summer months.
Apart from ecclesiastical edifices, there are four buildings which merit notice:- the Bank of Scotland, the Pavilion, the Hotel, and the Baths. The first two of these are handsome structures, the Pavilion being used by the Right Hon. the Earl of Eglinton and Winton as a marine residence. The Hotel was built by the late Earl of Eglinton for the public accommodation, and is a large and elegant building. It contains ten public rooms, eighteen bedrooms, with cold and warm baths, and excellent and extensive offices. There is a story told connected with the laying of the foundation stone of this building worthy of being recorded. After that ceremony was performed, the late Earl and a party of gentlemen adjourned for dinner to the Saracen's Head Inn, Saltcoats, then kept by the father of the present proprietor, Mr Campbell. Few men were more capable of uttering a good joke than the late Earl of Eglinton, and none in the district equalled Mr Campbell in the power of repartee. It is related that, on entering the Saracen's Head Inn, his Lordship told Mr Campbell that they had been laying the foundation stone of a large hotel; and that he and the other gentlemen had been discussing what name could appropriately be given to Saltcoats after that Ardrossan became a populous place, and he thought none would suit it better than that of "The Byres of Ardrossan." "Well, my Lord," said Mr Campbell, "If Saltcoats is to be the Byres of Ardrossan, we will milk the kye as they gang through."
Ardrossan is also indebted for the Baths to the enterprise of the late Earl; and, like everything else projected by that nobleman, they were constructed on the most approved principle. Their success was not in keeping with the liberal basis on which they were placed; and after his Lordship's death they fell into disnetude, and the premises were consequently shut up. When brought to a sale they were purchased by A. McFadzean, Esq., M.D., who placed them into a complete state of repair, and they are now equal to any in the country. The basins are all of marble, with dressing-rooms attached to each; and hot, cold, shower, shock, and vapour baths may be procured at a moment's notice. The purchaser of the Baths, Dr McFadzean, was of great service to Ardrossan in the earlier stages of its existence. He was forward in every good work, liberal to public institutions, and generous to the poor. He carried with him to the grave the regrets, the reverence, and the esteem of the whole community. Shortly after his death a handsome monument was erected to his memory on the Castle Hill, which, while perpetuating his worth, bears testimony to the respect in which he was held by those who had an opportunity of appreciating his many good qualities. He died 8th January, 1849, aged 60 years.
As means of recreation there are a fine Bowling Green, an Ashphalt Pond, and Butts for the practice of Archery. There is also a Public Library; and the Educational Seminaries are highly creditable to the locality. There are branches of two Banks – the Bank of Scotland, and the Western Bank; - and although the Justice of Peace Courts are held in Saltcoats, the Procurator-Fiscal's office is in Ardrossan.
Ardrossan was formed into a burgh in 1846. The Town-Council is composed of a Provost, two Magistrates, and six Councillors. The first election took place in September, 1846, when John Barr, Esq., was elected Provost, an honour he has ever since held.[1]
The boundaries of the parish of Ardrossan are very irregular. The extreme length backwards from the sea in a N.E. direction is about five miles, the breadth about three miles; the whole containing an area of about 7200 acres, including the Quoad Sacra lands of Boydstone.
There are only two streams of any consequence in the parish – the Stanley and Montfode burns, - both of which have their rise in Busbie moor, north of Ardrossan. The highest hill in the parish is Knockgergan, so called from the spongy nature of the soil. This hill is nearly 800 feet above the level of the sea, and commands an extensive view of the inland country, the frith of Clyde, and the Western Isles. It is said that on a good day no fewer than eleven to thirteen shires can be seen from its summit. The vestiges of an ancient camp can easily be traced, which appears to have been fortified on the south side by two ramparts of rough stones and earth. An artificial mound in the middle indicates that it served in those days of Danish invasion as a beacon hill to apprise the country of the appearance of those much dreaded marauders who carried ruin and devastation in their track. Nearly two miles south-east from Knockgergan is Roundhill, an artificial mound, 28 yards long by 18 yards broad, and about 400 feet above the level of the sea. This hill is also supposed to have served for the purpose of giving alarm in case of an invasion, which is confirmed by the fact that not far from the hill is a small farm called Tar Temple, or Tower Lodge, where, it is said, the beacon keeper resided. This property holds off the Knights Templar of St. John's of Jerusalem, now the Knights of Malta, who are represented in Ayrshire by Sir Thomas Wallace of Cairnhill. About two miles from Tower Lodge there was anciently an old castle or tower, which was taken down within the present century, and is supposed to have been the manor house of the barony of Drumwhistle. There is a farmsteading there now called the Tower, but a few trees, and the stone and lime foundation are all that remain of the old habitation. Lord's Mill, adjoining this steading, used to be called Drumwhistle Mill. It belongs to the Earl of Eglinton, and his Lordship's tenants in the parish are bound to bring their grist to it. About half-a-mile west of the mill, on the farm of Holmbyre, is a piece or lot of land called Nunnery Croft, and contiguous to it are the vestiges of an old building. From the circumstance of the piece of land being called Nunnery Croft, it is reasonable to suppose that the old building was a religious house, and the Holmbyre may have been the dairy of the retired sisters. The holm is rich pasture land, and is well adapted for cattle. Knockewart, nearly a mile and a half west of Holmbyre, is celebrated as being once the property of Dr Robert Simson, the celebrated professor of mathematics in the University of Glasgow. On this property there is a hill several feet lower than Knockgergan, on the top of which are a few stones but whether the remains of any object of antiquity it is now difficult to determine. About a century ago it was customary for the herds in the district to kindle what were called Herd's Fires on these hills on particular occasions, such as fairs and holidays. To these fires all the youths in the district resorted, round which they danced and spent the greater part of the night. This custom must have been in imitation of the practice observed in England, Ireland, and several parts of Scotland, on Midsummer Eve. This festival is of great antiquity, and seems to have been held in almost every part of the world; and, although the reasons given for observing it may be different, the manner of celebrating it was the same. In Greece shepherds were accustomed to kindle several heaps of straw in their fields in honour of Pales, in order that wolves might be driven from the fold, and distempers from the cattle. In England, Ireland and on the continent, the kindling of fires, and dancing round them, on Midsummer Eve, used to be almost universal, and were said to have been done in honour of St. John the Baptist, who was a shining light. In some places of Ireland, the people, old and young, were found not only to dance round the fire, but also to pass through it, along with their cattle, with religious solemnity. In the Appendix No. II. to Pennant's Tour, Shaw, in the account of Elgin and the shire of Murray, says, "In the middle of June farmers go round their corn with burning torches, in memory of the cerealia."
On Langliehill, about a mile north of Ardrossan Castle, in the centre of the wood with which that hill is now covered, there is also a cairn of stones, now nearly level with the ground, and covered with moss, probably commemorative of some noted event, or the grave of some illustrious warrior. West of this is Chapelhill Farm, adjoining to which are the remains of the old Castle of Montfode, which have been noticed in a previous Sketch.
It would be doing an injustice to the parish were we not to notice the improvements which have been effected in its agricultural condition during the past century. Previous to 1750 its condition in this respect was of the worst description. According to Chalmers, at that date "Farm houses were mere hovels, having an open hearth or fireplace in the middle of the floor; the dunghill at the door; the cattle starving, and the people wretched. There were no fallows, no green crops, no artificial grass, no carts, no waggons, no straw yards, and hardly a potatoe or esculent root. The farms were generally divided between the in-field and the out-field land. The first received the whole manure, the second was almost relinquished in despair." The parish of Ardrossan is indebted to Alexander, the tenth Earl of Eglinton, for commencing those improvements which are now carried to such perfection. He began by running a number of long and straight fences through the estate, encouraged green cropping in fallow, and turnip husbandry on a large scale, introduced artificial grasses, and adorned the hill tops with wooding. His brother Archibald, who succeeded him, was equally zealous in the work of improvement. As old leases ran out he built new and commodious farm houses; subdivided the land into larger farms, and bound the tenants to certain rotations of cropping. No fewer than 41 of these small farms were abolished; and farmers as a class gradually came to hold a higher status in society. The late Earl was not so active as his predecessors in improving the farms ion the estate; but he was no less distinguished for rare abilities, and for the energy with which he carried out his undertakings. He planned the Harbour of Ardrossan – built Eglinton Castle – laid out the grounds – enlarged the woodlands – directed the water courses – and re-organized the whole approaches to the princely mansion. For many years there was preserved in the walled parks of Ardrossan, a breed of aboriginal wild cattle of Scotland. They resembled the cow in many respects, but were more elegant in form – had a spirited wildness in the eye; and when they ran, instead of the clumsy gallop of the cow, they bounded like the deer. The last of these, a bull and two cows, were taken in 1820 to Duchall Castle.[2]

The island of little Cumbrae, although in the shire of Bute, is connected with the parish of Ardrossan by paying stipends to the minister, and other parochial burdens. Space forbids our giving a lengthened description of this island, but there are a number of antiquities connected with it worthy of being recorded. There was in it in former times a chapel dedicated to St. Beye, a Scottish virgin and saint, who is said to have died in 896, A.D., and was commemorated on the 1st November. The ruins of the chapel are still to be seen. It is called St. Beye's Chapel. On the east side of the island there is also an old castle which stands upon an inch or islet at ebb of the tide. It is said to have belonged to Patrick Montgomerie, of the house of Eglinton, who died about fifty years ago, at the advanced age of 100 years. The only entrance to this castle was by a folding bridge from the second floor to a parapet, and when hoisted up it completely covered the doorway. The castle was taken by General Monck, and burned to the ground. On the north side of the island are a number of cairns, underneath which, it is supposed, slumber the ashes of the Danes who were killed at the battle of Largs. The fleet of the Norwegian king is also said to have been refitted here before proceeding to sea after its defeat.


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* In constructing this Sketch, the writer has been indebted to "The Statistical Account of Scotland"; "Chalmer's Caledonia"; Brand's Popular Antiquities"; but chiefly M.S. Notes from H. F. Weir, Esq., Kirkhall


[1] He remained Provost until his death in 1884.

[2] https://threetowners.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15498
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
hahaya2004
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Re: Historical Sketches - Ardrossan

Post by hahaya2004 »

Sketch No. 5 was the last one.

Some more information:

Extension of Ardrossan

From the Ardrossan & Saltcoats Herald 25/03/1854


The great increase of shipping to the port of Ardrossan of late years, and its popularity as a watering place, have forced upon the Earl of Eglinton the necessity of still farther extending the town. A scheme for its extension has accordingly been prepared, and the plans which are already lithographed, will shortly be made public. It is proposed to feu the ground along the north shore in plots suitable for villas. The South Crescent is to be continued as far as the Stanley Burn, and the ground behind the Castle Hill will be laid off in streets. The entrance to this part of the town will be off Glasgow Street, and by a new street which will connect it with the South Crescent, crossing the Railway by means of a bridge. The situation of the villas on the north shore will be very fine, and viewed from the harbour will add greatly to the beauty of the town. As the villas will be built on a rising ground they will command a very extensive view of the whole coast which take in part of the coast of Argyllshire and the islands of Arran and Bute. Nor is the scenery less picturesque from the site of the South Crescent. Besides a view of part of Arran there is a delightful prospect of the Carrick coast, and the heads of Ayr, which, on a summer afternoon, is one of inconceivable beauty. We observe that the Directors of the Glasgow and South Western Railway Company called the attention of the shareholders to the scheme, and there is every probability that part of it at least will very shortly be carried out.
The most important hour is always the present, the most significant person is the one opposite you right now, and the most necessary deed is always love. - Meister Eckhart (c.1260 - c.1328)
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